Story in the heart of the cosmetics sector in Provence, number 1 … – Made in Marseille

At the time when the subject of the territorial attractiveness brings together all of the elect, where naturalness has been selected as one of 12 RTI (Operation of Regional Interest) of the PACA region, it is timely to present the importance of the cosmetic sector in Provence.

From the farmer to the finished product : a sector of excellence recognized worldwide

The flagship of the country’s economy, the French cosmetics is based primarily on the paris region (Cosmétic valley) and the Provence. Sector companies, French or foreign, are looking to get closer to the origin of the raw material to control traceability. The “Made in France” being principal of a marketing perspective, offshoring remains low.

The Provence region has the particularity of bringing together all stakeholders in the value chain : farmers, processors, producers of aromatic substances, the business of formulation of cosmetic and perfume compositions, and the undertakings on the market.

The PACA region is the 1st national pole of creation of perfume compositions, 1 territory for the cosmetology, perfumery, and the 1st region to the distillation, and the blend of essential oils. The whole sector generates 17 000 direct and indirect jobs and 2.5 billion euros of turnover per year.

La fabrication de parfum
The manufacture of perfume

The agricultural production of the Plants with Perfume, Aromatic and Medicinal plants (PPAM)

The extraordinary biodiversity of the region PACA, in fact, the first pole French producer of PPAM : nearly 2 000 farms cultivate 80 species for the cosmetic industry, the perfumery, agro-food and pharmacy on 23 000 hectares (source : ceddem). She became the first French area of production of PPAM from organic farming. The annual sales estimated at 35 million euros is the 1st economic resource and tourist centre of Haute-Provence.

The PACA region and the Drôme concentrate the bulk of the productions of perfume plants that shape our landscapes. The sector is organized into cooperatives of farmers as producers of essential oils of lavender, lavandin, clary sage, peppermint, rosemary, exported in the whole world. The territory of Grasse, very competed by the production
foreign and chemistry still grows the rose Centifolia, jasmine, iris, violet, lily, tuberose component of perfumes of the most prestigious.

The first transformation, natural ingredients

The Provence is the first region of france as a producer of aromatic raw materials obtained by processing of the PPAM, and fruits and vegetables (distillation, maceration, extraction).

The region has a real know-how in the field of distillation, it has 96 of the 130 distilleries in French, placed in the vicinity of areas of culture in order to distill the fresh plant. Heavily challenged by Bulgaria, the production of essential oil of fine lavender only covers 20% of the world market while 95% of the world production of essential oil of lavandin is French. 70 companies whose Mane and Robertet in the country, hinterland of grasse, Naturex, Avignon (1700 employees in the world), Bontoux SAS in the Drôme provençale, Technicoflor to Allauch, Ies Lab to Prayer in the manufacture of these natural ingredients.

extraction-sauge-usine-bontoux
Extraction of sage – Bontoux

In 2015 Inolex (USA), a manufacturer of components for cosmetics, bought out the company Ies LABO : “What interested this american company, it is our location in Provence and our approach to supply chain that ensures a total traceability of our products, ” says one of its leaders, Pierre Cappanera. These companies champions of the export (75 % of their sales) employ more than 5 000 employees in Provence. This activity is a determining factor for the different industries and pushes the processors to work in concert with the farmers subject to the seasons, the vagaries of the climate and to the phenomena of mode.

The manufacture of perfumes and cosmetics

The industry of perfume compositions and cosmetics, and has nearly 200 companies distributed between the activities of formulation, design and implementation on the market, or 55% of the national production, 1.3 billion € and more than 5 000 direct jobs. The region hosts 25 % of the seats in the social sector. This is the sector the most dynamic in the region, employment grew by 32 % between 1990 and 2005 (source : ceddem).

The basin hinterland of grasse has 60 companies that produce concentrates of fragrances for perfumery, cosmetics, food flavourings and detergents. Probionat Provence at La Fare Les Oliviers (13), Sicaf in Valréas (84), BEA in Forcalquier (04) are part of the many manufacturers that formulate and produce cosmetics for the brands that are not equipped with laboratories. L’occitane in Manosque has spawned a spin-off of sub-contracting companies, the source of creation of wealth and employment in its
department, and contributes greatly to the international reputation of Provence. “In Provence, 5 soap factories, carry out 25 % of the French production of soaps in subcontracting and exporting worldwide and provide the luxury brands,” explains Daniel Margot Ceo of Savonnerie de Haute Provence Villeneuve (04).

A network of service companies to complete this sector : toxicology testing, analytical chemistry, council and accompaniment in the creation of scales and the placing on the market.

A chain of human solidarity, having integrated CSR

In this universe, the concept of value chain and partnership is very important, “insists Benedict Articlaux Laboratories Acanthis. We, transformers PPAM, are the intermediaries between the farmer and the manufacturer of cosmetics. “It is in the forging of human relations of quality, that we can understand and respect the constraints of each actor of the supply chain as well as the cycle of vegetation. This relationship allows you to help each other, to anticipate, to collaborate, to result in a better quality , “he says.

There is no industry without endogenous formation , “says Daniel, Margot, The Savonnerie de Haute Provence, former manager of l’occitane. With the laboratory BEA, they have created a qualification of conductor line carried by the Union of the Enterprises of the Alpes de Haute Provence.

Un champ de sauge
A field of sage

The R&D project Claryssime carried by the company Bontoux SAS has helped support and develop the sector clary sage (third PPAM cultivated in Provence after the lavandin and lavender). Before the international competition, Bontoux SAS organizes technical workshops with farmers to lead “a work in supply chain from cultivation to marketing of the finished product, the sclaréol ” explains Claire Delbecque, R&D manager of the company. In 10 years, this combination of skills has allowed to differentiate the sub-sector French sage at the international level by its quality and up to twice the income per hectare cultivated.

A supply chain that is innovative and committed to sustainable development

An offer of advanced training and complete

In perfumery that uses 3500 different ingredients, the innovation is in the creation ” emphasized Han-Paul Bodifee, Chairman of the pride parades PASS. And to add that the global competition, regulations in constant evolution and the controversies over the ingredients put innovation to product safety and the development of processes respectful of the environment and people at the heart of the concerns of the sector.

In this context, our universities and schools stand and give a whole new meaning to the concept of supply chain :

The laboratory GREEN of the university of Avignon (at the origin of the platform of eco-extraction of Valréas inaugurated in September 2016), the Faculty of Science of the University of Sophia Antipolis, école Polytech of Nice, Laboratory of pharmaceutics, Faculty of Pharmacy, University of Aix-Marseille an offer of training developed and sponsored by the stakeholders of the sector. The ” pôle de compétitivité PASS to Fat sharing all his knowledge in order to help the university to prepare students for the future skills of the sector.

The European University of Scents & Flavours (UESS), training centre and upgrading of the plant aromatic, cosmetic and food industries based in Forcalquier (04) is the only centre in France offering a formation of soap by saponification, cold-delivering the title of soap.

Startups regional invested in innovation

The pipeline is important because it allows you to reflect in a consistent manner , “says Mr. Mouth, farmer-to-Queyranne (84), who has revived the culture of Madder. Replaced by chemical dyes, it is grown again to meet the regulatory requirements on the dyes. The startup Erubescence to Valréas manufactures natural dyes from plants from the region, such as the madder. Thus, the re-introduction of this culture has helped promote the maintenance of mixed farming, ensuring soil enrichment, and to meet the challenge of sustainable development.

Immunosearch has developed immunity tests alternatives to testing on animals on the verge of being recognized by the OECD.

The laboratory IN OYA in Gardanne has patented, in collaboration with the CNRS, of the cosmetic against the hyper-pigmentation of black skin. IN OYA is committed to a sustainable development approach for the benefit of the african initiative of the Great Green Wall.

Capsum located at Technopôle de Château-Gombert (70 employees, 38 patents) has developed a technology for encapsulation of the active which allows you to move solvents and other surfactants in the formulation of the products.

Feeligreen in Valbonne designs of devices using micro-currents to distribute assets through the skin.

A supply chain enterprising and eco-responsible

Of private initiatives of collective such as ” The road of flavours and perfumes in Haute Provence are the backbone of the territory and are in addition to the tourism spin-offs and indirect economic this sub-sector is estimated at 1.7 billion euros in 2007.

Beside our regional brands, well installed (include Florame, Terre d’oc, L’occitane en Provence, The Othantique, Melvita, Thalgo), Provence has seen the rise in recent years of beautiful brands of natural cosmetic, bio, sourcées and produced in Provence. This entrepreneurship very feminine is engaged in approaches, eco-responsible, social and
solidarity : among them include the SCENTS OF the SOUTH to la Ciotat, The FAIRIES IN PROVENCE to Aubagne, the PULP OF LIFE in Marseille, OLIVE AND CALISSONS in Aix-en-Provence, the HEART OF CICADA in Valréas, ABOUT NATURE, La Roque d’anthéron.

A structured sub-sector

Invested in a green revolution, the sector boasts of a whole ecosystem in an eco-responsible commitment to safer products, using less solvent, using less energy and reducing releases.

The competitiveness cluster PASS (Perfumes, Aromas, Scents, Flavours), Grasse (06) brings together companies in the sector and promotes by his actions innovation and global competitiveness.

The CPPARM (Committee of the Plants with Perfume, Aromatic and Medicinal) in Manosque working to defend, increase and promote the production of provence. “The impact on these sectors in terms of image, and economy are very positive for the Provence , “says Aurélie Gummed, director of the CPPARM.

The association of AUTHENTIC-PROVENCE is born in 2013 from the desire of companies in the sector to guarantee to consumers the origin of provence of the brand : “This initiative provides a guarantee to foreign distributors in quest of authenticity and anti-counterfeiting ” stresses Christophe Gilles, president of the association and leader of the
laboratory Algovital.

COSMEBIO promotes a sector of excellence and raises the awareness of the public cosmetic different. In Provence, 50 companies adhere. “Organic cosmetics has opened new avenues of research in the conventional cosmetics , “says Jean-Francois Gravel, a member of the technical commission and President of the Laboratories, Gravel, evoking the takeover of SANOFLORE by L’OREAL.

COSMED (700 members, of which 200 in the PACA region) in Aix-en-Provence, brings together businesses and SMES of the sector, its vocation is to defend the interests of its members and to provide services (monitoring, regulatory, training, group purchasing).

Mandatory from 1 January 2017, the european reference framework COSMOS is working to safeguard the environment and ensure the well-being by promoting the development of products natural and organic cosmetics, and providing a transparent information in order that consumers can be the actors of sustainable development.

In Marseille, the platform Cosmétic Provence offers small businesses access to technical resources, marketing, industrial and legal. “It is a network of partners,” says its president, Jean-Claude Hubaud, founder of the laboratory Hélioscience specializes in the evaluation of sunscreens.

Anne Farcy

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