Gwyneth Paltrow was out this winter with strength and crash its first fragrance, the composition is 100 % natural. Edition 01 feels «the smoke, the snow and the silence» and is expensive : almost $ 200. A fragrance of luxury, such as all cosmetics green line Goop, which the american media have widely touted the merits. The juice is not (yet) marketed in Europe, but the actress was addicted to green juices and seeds explains on its website that it wants to launch » a revolution in the perfume «, with the exact composition of his own. What are not required perfumers across the Atlantic.

In France also, things seem to move : after Honoré des Prés, the natural juices to top of the range created in 2008 by nose Olivia Giacobetti, the Spring comes to identifying the young house 100Bon and its formulas to the alcohol organic wheat that do not contain any synthetic molecule, or derivative petrochemical (sometimes used as a solvent, dye or to transform the alcohol). «The French market is finally ready… It was not ten years ago, when we first launched, says Christian David, founder of the brand Honoré des Prés. We have never had as many requests, as well in France as in the United States, and particularly in California, where our bottles are highly demanded. «

Perfumes certified natural

It is necessary to see in this success a number of factors. First, the debate around our power, the most advanced of the natural cosmetics is preceded by questions in the food sector. The two universes have become porous : superfoods, probiotics, algae, and vitamins are the star ingredients of the creams today. According to a study by Mintel conducted in 2016, the French want to put it on their skin assets that they could ingest. «Women come to us when they decide to change their beauty routine, especially when they are pregnant : our best clients ! continues Christian David, there are also those affected by the disease, who can no longer bear anything. «And want control over what they apply on their body and avoid any toxic products. Note, however, that, even without alcohol, the natural perfumes do not guarantee a tolerance universal for sensitive skins and can cause allergies – the citrus extracts are so highly allergenic.

From the food to the cosmetics

Individuals have the desire to compositions, but also smells less synthetic. «Few brands are asking us to formulate with 100 % natural, moderates the perfumer Domitille Berthier. Women are accustomed to the smells from the chemistry for a very long time : the aldehydes of Chanel No. 5 break the opulence of the flowers and Shalimar of Guerlain also contains a bit of synthetic vanilla. «If our nose is no longer so much the difference, our brain if. «Overall, the perfume industry is looking for smells less artificial,» she continues. Notes of chocolate, for example, resemble now more of a tablet extra 75 % of cocoa to the Nesquik. But this does not mean that the brands use natural ingredients. «

One thing is for sure : the juice without synthetic molecules are formulated with as much skill as fragrances or conventional. Even if the range of notes is reduced, these waters are far from basic. Especially, if it is blamed to the juice natural up here, their lack of dress, the tuberose Honoré des Prés proves by its long wake that it is far from always being the case. A point on which the French are demanding. Thus, the historical label Gellé Frères has achieved its five fragrances through a process of micro-encapsulation of odorant molecules, replacing alcohol (which dries and can stain the skin). Ditto at Buly, whose Waters Triple (twelve agreements) do not contain a drop of ethanol but provide a remanence sustainable through an emulsion to the water, perfect on the skin and hair.

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