In the 1970s and 1980s, the quintessence of the cosmetic product was of chemical origin, recalls Claude Fromageot, director of sustainable development at Yves Rocher, a pioneer of the cosmetics plant. The movement towards the natural began in the early 2000’s and continues to grow since. « Consumer expectations, supported by a law more strict.
On 14 march, at Orleans, the regulation in cosmetics was the theme of a one-day national science organized by the research group Cosm’assets (CNRS) and the programme Cosmétosciences of the region Centre-Val de Loire. Manufacturers have presented to the academic researchers, regulatory issues, procurement of raw material to the safety of the finished products.
To fight biopiracy
«Now, the academic laboratories are investing in research in the field of cosmetics, welcomed Christophe Masson, scientific director of Cosmetic Valley, the pole of competitiveness to coordinate the development of French perfumes and cosmetics. It is a revolution : ten years ago, there were few public-private partnership. «
Natural ingredients, but not in any conditions. Adopted in 2010 in the framework of the convention on biological diversity, the Nagoya protocol is in the process of being implemented in several countries. Last week saw the end of the public consultation of the draft French decree. The objective of the protocol is to combat bio-piracy, misappropriation, or unfair genetic resources and traditional knowledge related to their use. Now, in the signatory countries, it becomes impossible to operate the plant without the agreement and consideration to the State concerned.
How the research goes with it-t-it this movement towards responsible sourcing of raw materials natural ? First, on the international level emerges » a cosmétopée «. The idea : to identify plants and their uses in cosmetic, through academic partnerships. This concept, created as a result of the Nagoya conference by the director-general of the Cosmetic Valley, Jean-Luc Ansel, is inspired by the pharmacopeia, which lists the plants therapeutic use. At the end of 2016, a first meeting was held on the cosmétopée the Pacific to Tahiti. The projetentend participate in the safeguarding of biodiversity,…