For the past two years, the natural cosmetics is booming. A trend that can be explained by the ecological awareness around the world, but also by the recent scandals caused by some of the chemical ingredients used in the creams. While the skincare market is a whole sentence (- 8 % in perfumes), creams, anti-aging herbal attracting more and more care and organic growth of + 4.3 %. The natural became the first topic of conversation on the Internet ! «The audience question a lot on the composition and quality of cosmetic products. A number of ingredients like the silicones and derivatives of paraffin are today being singled out. Hence the strong growth in natural products, which are rising in Europe, two times more than the rest of the cosmetics. 29 % of women are willing to spend more for a product without these items, » reports Julien Weill, director general France of Kiehl’s and Biotherm. The «green» reassures us, rightly or wrongly. In recent months, the anti-ageing products that display the greatest concentrations of natural ingredients (over 95 %) have the odds as those who play the card of » no » (paraben, dye, etc). Most brands seek closer ties with the criteria of organic, without necessarily follow to the letter the very demanding specifications of the label, which deprives them of ingredients in highly active or agents of texture are essential to the sensoriality of care.
The bio, but not that
What the French appreciate, it is the natural in the broad sense. In contrast to the Nordic, we are not fundamentalists of the green. The content of the formula is not enough to seduce us. It is above all necessary that the mark touches the heart with a beautiful story. In this period of uncertainty, a bit of sweetness and tenderness is not too much. Nature becomes a refuge on which the whole world wanted to bet.
Anti-wrinkle natural : what is the natural one to choose ?
There are several ways to be «green» for a brand.
– The first is to incorporate a herbal ingredient star within its formula, such as rose, orchid or honey. An option chosen today by many players in the cosmetic. Some brands are so involved in the culture and the preservation of species of plants that are used in the composition of their products. Clarins, for example, with its herbarium of 250 plants, at the heart of privileging of the organic plants grown locally. And to put in place agreements of fair trade with the producer countries, as in the seed oil of baobab tree of Africa. Dior, for its part, has a number of different «gardens» in the world. Through sustainable partnerships with local producers, everything is implemented, to allow some flowering plants, such as hibiscus from Burkina Faso, to give the best of themselves.
An approach that can be found at Chanel with the ginger blue of Madagascar. Guerlain, for its part, has put in place, in China, an ambitious program of preservation of orchids, including the precious active anti-age feed range Imperial. Regarding The Occitan, it is the origin of the first culture under control of the immortal, in Corsica, which does not affect the wild flora of the maquis. Among the natural ingredients used, it should, however, distinguish between the plant extract of the active molecule isolated in a specific way, such as resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant, derived from the vine and used, for example, by Caudalie and SkinCeuticals.
– The second way to be «green» is moving towards » all-natural «, such as Kiehl’s crème Pure Vitality Skin Renewing, which contains 99.6 percent of plant ingredients. However, if these are natural, the processes implemented to obtain it are not mandatory. There is therefore a need also to distinguish the natural formula of the formula » end of the natural «.
– The third is to play the card bio , or formulas incorporating 95% to 100% natural ingredients, all biodegradable, of which 20 % are of organic origin.. Ethically speaking, the bio is the best of the natural, because it ensures that the assets are from an agriculture without pesticides, and the manufacturing processes respect the environment. However, this does not mean that the formulas are organic are more effective or better tolerated by the skin. Thus, certain essential oils are among the ingredients most allergenic.
Green but effective
It has often been criticized for natural cosmetics to be less efficient than the traditional. But, today, we find the radius of «green» beauty shops the same range of formulas anti-aging in the cosmetic tradi : wrinkle creams, firmness or stain. «The first way to guarantee to the consumer the quality and the effectiveness of the product, it is formulated with plant extracts titrated (more expensive than the non-titled) that guarantee their content of active properties from one crop to the other,» explains Lionel de Benetti, a cosmetologist. In addition, the brands are looking for from suppliers of raw materials (Greentech, Nature…) of the ingredients to the effectiveness «objectified» by the scientific studies.
«These are, for example, the molecules of a plant that has been isolated in a specific way, by distillation, filtration or polyfractionnement, which is then subjected to tests that will validate their performance on the skin (in vitro, ex vivo, and sometimes also in vivo). And, this, more versus the molecules of reference of the cosmetic, such as retinol or vitamin C, » it still reports Lionel de Benetti. Another commendable initiative : that of Yves Rocher, which has been working for several years on the good assimilation of plant actives through the skin. All the assets that we apply on the epidermis, does not penetrate obviously ! Where the development of exploration techniques flare-ups, to ensure efficiency tenfold care.
Anti-wrinkle natural assets that work
Essential oils : Some have anti-aging properties proven, such as carrot (resistant) and borage (anti-wrinkle).
The active ingredients from the «green chemistry» : be of plant raw materials, renewable, transformed by processes eco-friendly such as biotechnology. one obtains through this process of natural fermentation on the famous hyaluronic acid, known for his power plumping, but also plant stem cells (apple, rose, marine plants, etc), which stimulate the metabolism of the skin.
Vegetable oils : for their richness in essential fatty acids (cameline), vitamin e (Prickly pear), or carotenoids to the effect of «retinol-like» (rose butternut).
Vegetable glycerine : end of the rapeseed oil, for its smoothing effect instant.
Ginseng : stimulating the cell metabolism.
Resveratrol : powerful antioxidant.
Centella asiatica : stimulates the synthesis of collagen and elastin.
The extract of mulberry : smudge-resistant.
The unsaponifiables of avocado : stimulating cell renewal.
Proteins : wheat or oats, and acacia gum for their immediate tensor effect.
The powder :the bark or apricot kernel, biodegradable, used in the scrubs.
Honey : a very good healing, and royal jelly, an amazing cellular revitalizing.